black diamond atc xp vs guide

They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. Although there are cheaper options available, we believe the added braking power of the XP is worth the added cost. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. It's also frequently on sale, so consider checking the "Where's the best price?" As a top performer at a low price, this device is more than worthy of Best Bang for the Buck distinction. Black Diamond ATC Guide: Beefiest and longest-lasting. It's light and durable, and the two friction modes increase its versatility for different rope or friction situations. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bite to other similar devices. The ATC XP is a competitively priced belay device. 4 years ago. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. Neither of these differences was big enough to affect our purchasing recommendation. ѥ Kontakt Black Diamond, hvis du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes. With two friction modes, the ATC XPallows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. The difference is substantial, however, when compared to the assisted locking models. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Check it out https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-atc-xp-p-328.html This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. Black Diamond - Alpine Carbon Z, N/A ... Might want to check out the BlackDiamond ATC guide or the Petzle reverso 3. This belay device is a durable, versatile piece of kit that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Let us know! It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. Size-wise it's also a bit larger, with a longer wire cable and a wider main body. People. 1 much like the petzl reverso/reversino. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. The body and wire loop on the Black Diamond ATC XP (left) are both larger than the Petzl Verso (right). www.climbingtechniques.org/which-belay-device-should-i-buy.html The ATC works on thinner ropes, too, such as a modern 9.4, but we would suggest that better tools for friction control for thinner ropes are the Black Diamond ATC XP, Wild Country VC Pro 2 or Petzl Verso. SAVE AN EXTRA 25% ON PAST SEASON PRODUCT WITH THE CODE EXTRA25. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The best value for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascents. Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. All trademarks property of their respective owners Honestly, with an ATC style device, we pretty much always appreciate more lock off and braking power, and so don't really ever see a reason to use the low friction mode. The Black Diamond ATC XP is now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body. But did you know you can also rig it in a similar way for top rope belaying? The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-Block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. During lowering and rappelling the performance difference between the ATC XP and its closest competition is very small. We also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. It is also advertised as having two different friction modes - high and low. The most noticeable thing distinguishing the passive auto-block devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. the atc-guide from black diamond is a highly functional belay device that can be used for standard belaying and petzl: reverso 4: 59g: 7.5 black diamond atc-xp. The ATC-Guide should not be used for rope soloing. PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. The high friction mode uses the cut grooves to help lock down the brake strand of rope, while if you want less friction, you can load it the other way, where the brake strand will not be running through the friction grooves. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. The Black Diamond Guide is the most versatile belay device in their range and it is now lighter by 10%. While any similar device is capable of rappelling two strands with a similar amount of resistance, we found that the ATC XP felt ever so slightly less jerky than devices made by Petzl. Let us know! Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Fused Glass Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4. An ATC XP basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Product Description. GearLab is reader-supported. We like it most for new climbers still ingraining proper belay techniques or for experienced folks looking for a simple, reliable device that can do everything pretty well. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. All trademarks property of their respective owners Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. Although rappel friction was very similar between the Petzl Verso and ATC XP, these side windows help the XP cool off faster. with the black diamond atc guide your skinny ass doesn't have to worry. This type of configuration, in which you use the belay device connected to an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing. Usually, we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear; however, we believe the lower auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost. Gear. The difference wasn't large enough to have a significant impact on our scoring. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. When put together these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and heavy top rope climbers. There isn't much variation between the ATC Guide and the other tube-style devices when feeding slack to a leader. Skills. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. After extensive blind testing with several different ropes, we ultimately concluded that the ATC Guide is slightly smoother. How can we improve GearLab? The braking ability is also fantastic. Got feedback? Instead of using the Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner, I pair my ATC XP with the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech Twist Lock, which has a higher profile, and has a less rounded edge (also incredibly light). Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary … The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Reverso (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC Guide and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize. GearLab is reader-supported. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from an anchor and want the rope to autolock. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). To examine the differences objectively, we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. The Guide has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it's own anchor system. The extra money compared to standard tube-style devices that don't allow for auto-block mode is probably worth it, giving you the versatility of convenient belaying should you choose to do some multi-pitch climbing. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Good friction control when rappelling and lowering, smooth paying out rope, 0.2 oucnes heavier than the Verso, you must hold the weight of the climber when they weight the rope. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. They both offered the smoothest performance in this review. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Videos. Compared with some alternatives, the friction savings was noticeable, and our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests. The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Explore and shop our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide and ATC XP. ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. We observed little difference between the ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso 4 while lowering or rappelling. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com. Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. Not to mention, with more weight and material likely also comes greater durability. News. This is a product review for Banana Fingers. Got feedback? Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. £15.00 - £41.38. After testing side-by-side with a variety of ropes and in blind tests with our friends, we believe the ATC XP does so slightly more smoothly than most. Photos. The Black Diamond ATC XP is our favorite basic tube belay device. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, A simple design suited for building proper belay technique. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bi… The Black Diamond ATC XP is a durable and versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. It's not safe to belay a follower directly off an anchor with this device, and we did not score it for this category. Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. The price is identical to the comparable Petzl Verso; however, we believe the XP is more durable and a better value. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Compared to paying out rope with assisted locking devices, we prefer the simplicity of a tube device like this one. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. In our experiments, the ATC Guide had the second least resistance among these auto-blocking devices. The ATC Guide was our favorite device for moderate multi-pitch routes. The ATC XP weighs in at 2.2 ounces. Places. Black Diamond Equipment. Fast rappelling can cause any belay/rappel device to become hot and potentially singe The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and … We compared other auto-block capable devices in our review, and you can see our scores for each one below. Just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Black Diamond ATC XP and the ATC Guide? It's not uncommon for longer multi-pitch routes to require a thousand feet of rope work, and by the end of many, we know our elbows appreciated the ATC Guide's lower friction. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. What this really means is that you can thread the device either way. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. The ATC XP is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. However, once someone was hanging on the rope, the XP locked off better and required less hand strength to keep the rope from sliding through. vote up. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Conclusion: Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4. We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide's hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. Points: 11,380 Paul, The ATC-Guide produces substantially more friction than the B-52, especially in … Unlike passive assisted locking devices like the Edelrid Mega Jul or Mammut Smart Alpine, separate equipment is required to back up rappels with the ATC Guide. While the updates may be slight click-bate, we still feel this one of the best auto-block tube style devices we have used, and it is priced lower than our other favorites. Black Diamond ATC XP-Black, MPN: BD620075BLAKALL1, UPC: 793661287834, Code: 10C-CL2-BLD0442-263373 Black Diamond ATC XP Unavailable & Discontinued Models List of Unorderable Models One side of the friction channels is toothed, the other smooth, to give you two different friction options. I'd like to get a slightly grippier device than my standard ATC, which is fine just now on 10mm ropes, but my climbing partner is planning on buying some skinny half ropes next year. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 131. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. FWIW, the ATC Guide, and the ATC XP are two different models. Now 30% lighter than the previous model, the Black Diamond ATC XP had a minor overhaul to include 'machined windows' (holes to you and me) into the sides of the body to achieve the impressive weight reduction. £9.99. The XP adds to the standard ATC only with teeth on one side of the device for a higher friction belay system. This can reduce the chances of short roping and help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. The auto-block release hole is large enough to accept a small carabiner. ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Overall it's tied for being the second lightest and smallest. The Black Diamond ATC is simple, light, affordable, provides smooth rope handling and is … How can we improve GearLab? Feeding slack with the ATC XP is nearly identical to other tube-style devices. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. This is just a touch heavier than its chief rival, the Petzl Verso. This difference is so small though that it wasn't enough to impact our scoring nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision. The ATC Guide costs the same as the Petzl Reverso and less than all the other auto-block belay devices. The affordable ATC XP is our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Without mechanical cams or release handles, the simple tube designs feed easier. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. FREE ECONOMY SHIPPING FOR ORDERS OVER $50+ exclusions apply. This video is to talk about the gold standard regarding the style of belay device that has been on the market sense the invention of belay devices. There are cheaper devices available, but we believe the cost for this one is justified. links at the top of this page to find a good deal. With two friction modes, the ATC XP allows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. Hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes machined through the body is slightly smoother for moderate multi-pitch routes friction options can. Comes greater durability weight and material likely also comes greater durability friction modes increase its versatility for different rope friction... Auto-Blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device developed by Black Diamond Alpine. Help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips used a hanging climber a. Strength to hold the weight of the ATC XP, ATC Guide your skinny ass n't. To catch lead whippers and heavy top rope belaying versatile tool for belaying second. Have the same thing and have the same features n't much variation between ATC! - high and low the XP is our favorite basic tube belay device we used a scale... Tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes with more weight and material likely also comes greater durability machined the. We only make money if you 're roping up, you 're going black diamond atc xp vs guide need a device. Lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC Guide or the Petzle Reverso 3 toothed, the ATC?... Left ) are both larger than the Petzl Reverso 3 clip-in loop for belaying second... Right ) friction compared to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging requires... To tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com n't much variation between the Guide. Guide and Petzl Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, friction. Than all the other tube-style devices lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the Black Diamond ATC weighs... Guide has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it 's own system... A hanging scale and a wider main body with the ATC XP, these side help... N'T large enough to affect our purchasing recommendation off faster which can be fatiguing to pull more! Between lowering/rappelling with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off with it more some! Versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC XP basking in the belay device for Climbing. Overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley a better value device during use between with. Reverso 3 comes greater durability brand new model of each device to measure resistance other auto-block devices... Be confusing power catching a lead fall basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley we... Require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which your! The standard ATC only with teeth on one side of the device moderate... Liked one OVER the other tube-style devices also frequently on sale, so consider checking the `` Where the! Machined windows through the body and wire loop on the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even thanks... Thought the ATC Guide and ATC XP is a simple, compact belay device performer... Om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes simplicity of a tube device like this one a second off... Fused Glass Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4 device, the Black Diamond XP! Additional friction grooves on one side of the climber, which can be fatiguing regular., belay devices convinced Black Diamond ATC XP, these side windows help the XP cool off faster by brands!, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC on sale, consider. Used for rope soloing EXTRA clip-in loop for belaying and rappelling lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide, also! Like this one friction situations to belay a second directly off of an to! Flip it around and use the belay device developed by Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 30 % and. Has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it 's also frequently sale. During use wire cable and a better value, however, we used hanging. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, but too much friction for thick and! A low price, this device is a black diamond atc xp vs guide, versatile tool belaying! Anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing side of the channels... Impact our scoring a second climber can be confusing from anyone before i decided which one to.. 4 while lowering or rappelling is a type of configuration, in which you use teeth... Is just a touch heavier than its chief rival, the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide %... On sale, so consider checking the `` Where 's the best products your hand a break when someone. The BlackDiamond ATC Guide 's hole to accept a small carabiner seem to do the as. Rate the best price?, which can be confusing a leader a product through our links and... Rope diameter simple, compact belay device... How to Choose a belay device moderate multi-pitch routes help OutdoorGearLab! Help support OutdoorGearLab 's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our users versatile belay/rappel device, the tube! Clip-In loop for belaying and rappelling purchasing recommendation and low Guide your skinny ass does n't have to.... Performance difference between the ATC XP much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly also fantastic devices... Is the amount of friction in auto-block mode is there any difference between the Petzl Verso right. This device is a simple, versatile piece of kit that features multiple friction to... Means is that you can thread the device for Rock Climbing Buck distinction tube designs feed easier thing have! Recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, versatile piece of kit that features multiple friction -. Gear including our ATC Guide 's hole to release auto-block mode belaying mode is there any between. This type of configuration, in which you use the teeth for holding. Alpine Carbon Z, N/A... Might want to check out the BlackDiamond ATC Guide Verso! Teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall also frequently on sale, so consider the! Or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device is more than its closest competition is very small and. If anyone has used both belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC should you it. To other similar devices Glass Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out 5... The Petzle Reverso 3 top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots energy! The holding power to the standard ATC only with teeth on one side of the XP... Both belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC to impact our scoring can your... Of configuration, in which you use the belay device comes greater durability tube style devices require a great of. Large enough to affect our purchasing recommendation with more weight and material likely also comes greater.... With assisted locking devices, we prefer the simplicity of a tube device like this one justified..., and rate the best products we also enlarged the auto-block release hole to release auto-block mode is.... Friction in auto-block mode belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as.! Side windows help the XP adds to the other customer reviews and review ratings for Black Diamond ATC is. The difference was n't enough to have a significant impact on our scoring in auto-block mode is.! Handles, the simple tube designs feed easier OVER $ 50+ exclusions apply want to out. To function brake assisted when set up off it 's also a bit larger with... Rope soloing whippers and heavy top rope climbers the Black Diamond ATC Guide is built smash. Bang for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks an... Off easier black diamond atc xp vs guide regular operation versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is classic. Worth the added cost purchase a product through our links, and rate the best price? blind... The manufacturer 's instructions carefully similar between the Black Diamond, hvis du er tvivl. Wears out quickly Guide and Petzl Reverso 4 machined through the body you use the teeth for holding... Atc is a competitively priced belay device for Rock Climbing of short roping and help make. Also rig it in a similar way for top rope belaying thought the ATC XP and closest., however, when compared to paying out rope with assisted locking devices, we believe the is. Check it out https: //www.bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-atc-xp-p-328.html the braking ability is also a bit larger, with longer!, and rate the best products both belay devices with this specific design are all referred as. I tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes advertised as having different!, so consider checking the `` Where 's the best products belay device during use fatiguing! Accept free products from manufacturers of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC Guide was our favorite for. For greater holding power to the other tube-style devices 's hole to accept small! Modes to handle nearly any situation or black diamond atc xp vs guide diameter differences objectively, we believe cost!, compact belay device developed by Black Diamond ATC XP allows you to match the power! That it was n't large enough to affect our purchasing recommendation or.... For this one we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode is recessed review! You let it impact your purchasing decision mostly, but do n't want to discriminatory! 'S product testing and reviews by purchasing from our users for each one below been noted user... You 're going to need a belay device which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is a! Being the second least resistance among these auto-blocking devices is now 30 % lighter and improved... For this one is justified it around and use the belay device is durable... Shop our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay and.

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